Mannequins and models - how can fashion become more inclusive?
shonalouise
Member Posts: 15 Courageous
I’m Shona, a 20 year old blogger, writer, powerchair user, activist, volunteer and more. For nearly 7 years I’ve been sharing my thoughts on my blog about what I’m passionate about, including conversations around ableism, accessibility and disability rights.
As a young woman, many people assume that I automatically love shopping for clothes, and whilst that is true now, it hasn’t always been that way. Pre-wheelchair use I didn’t care much for fashion and style. I’d chuck on the first t-shirt and jeans I saw in my wardrobe. Whilst part of me wished I had a distinctive personal style like others, I didn’t have that passion for putting outfits together. But then I became a powerchair user when my condition Marfan Syndrome caused a series of secondary conditions that left me struggling to walk and needing multiple surgeries.
When I started using a powerchair I really immersed myself within the disabled community online, and on Instagram I came across an empowering group of disabled people who all had their own style, their own look that they embraced alongside their disability. It really sparked something in me and as my body confidence grew I found myself getting braver in my style choices. Ever since then I’ve loved clothes, or even just browsing. My style still isn’t exciting but I’m constantly being empowered by others and feel I’m finally working out what my style is. As many of you may know though, shopping just isn’t that easy sometimes.
There is of course the obvious problem of access, lack of accessible changing rooms and shops that turn into an obstacle course because of displays and too many rails, but there is another problem that can make clothes shopping just as difficult.
Most of the models online and mannequins in store are stood up!
When I became a powerchair user I quickly became aware of the fact that clothes look very different when you’re sat down compared to when you’re stood up. Skirts are a complete no go for me, they just look odd, particularly if my top is tucked into them, so I quickly learned to avoid them. Everything else is hit and miss though, and models online being nearly always stood up doesn’t help me at all. It’s the same on the high street too: mannequins are almost always stood up, in fact in my city centre I couldn’t find a single shop mannequin sat down.
Sitting down is part of most people’s daily lives, whether you’re a wheelchair user, an ambulatory disabled person or not disabled at all, you’ll probably be sitting down during some parts of your day. So, why are clothes almost always displayed stood up? Is it because clothes are only being designed for standing, displaying them like a model on a catwalk? Or is it because we’ve become so accustomed to ignoring the needs of disabled people that we just haven’t considered it being a problem?
Presenter and wheelchair user Sophie Morgan spoke on this issue last year and talked about a mannequin sitting in a wheelchair in a shop window as a sign that the shop is inclusive, but for me it also highlighted the fact that wheelchair users and other disabled people could see what clothes looked like sat down with these mannequins. Whilst it would be great to see wheelchair using mannequins, and even better to see more disabled models, I’d love to see mannequins and models sat down more to enable people like me to understand better how clothes would look on us. I feel this is easily achievable online, it would just be the simple case of taking some photos of the models sat down on a chair, or even going one step further and using some models who are wheelchair users! Diverse representation, and representation of what clothes look like sat down, in one.
This ties into a huge issue of exclusion and ableism within the fashion industry. Of course, it’s just one small part of a big problem but for me, it’s doing the small things that make the difference. Disabled models exist, there’s quite a few out there actually, so why aren’t we using them? Why aren’t we at least photographing clothes sat down? Why do I always feel so excluded when I enter a shop?
Questions aside, it’s time that the fashion industry started representing and including more people!
What issues do you encounter when shopping for clothes as a disabled person?
Replies
It has little to do with disability at all.
Despite being disabled myself and using a wheelchair at times I still don't think it is the right of ANY minority to force their rules onto others, all it does is cause animosity in the majority. A good example of this is the enforcement of laws covering race and / or colour which has caused as many problems as it solved.
TK
I do think the high street clothing stores need to add seated mannequins to their displays. I shall also suggest this to shops I frequent.
They make them sitting.
Example.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Metallic-Mannequin-Mannequin-Measuring-Ordinary/dp/B00N20Y0HY
But spot the other problem. It's a stick, not a mannequin! 25" waist. Come on I was probably what 10 with that.
There have been discussions that these do not represent the " average" woman even standing up.
As for crowding the shop, yep. Numerous displays knocked over and that's me standing up. Just not good with the special awareness.
Not a typo, it's special.
I don't follow this comment. Markmywords.
This suggests that people with disabilities/ illnesses are walking around naked and do not buy any clothes at all.
One of my issues actually means I can get through clothes.
Though beginning to consider walking around without footwear because that's a bug bear that nothing actually lasts.
@debbiedo49 I love whoever invented velcro and elastic.
My random thoughts:
Fashion is an art form, art has trends and phases.... Those trickle own into the 'highstreet'.... Some folks buy what fashion suggests.. Perhaps those that see themselves reflected in the body shales designed for... and others buy clothes just to pragmatically cover their body... So I think there's an awful lot inside what you're suggesting.
As a power chair user.. I've had to change a lot about what I wear and would love to see more models my shape to get ideas and inspiration.. Just like 'average shaped ' humans get inspiration from current fashion.
It really saddens me to see that the first reactions to your post were 'disabled people are a minority so its too expensive e/most people stand up so that's what it is made for' ...
Is there anywhere online etc where there are ideas for those of us sat down all the time?
"I'm trying to live like a random poem I read that ended 'to bloom where we are planted"
Clothes made for wheelchair users are horrible, frumpy, really boring and scream "I'm disabled and therefore don't deserve anything nice". And then they have the cheek to charge exhorbitant prices because of the disability label!
Low neck lines don't work - the low neck means those standing near you can see what you dont want people to see...because they're looking down. I asked a shop assistant once if they had something less revealing, and she said "the demand is for low revealing tops".
Tight around the bum doesn't work - they rip.
All I want is loose fitting pretty (not frumpy) tops that aren't sheer (and so needing an extra layer I don't want) and are not obscene when seated & others are standing! But they're not fashionable apparently.....
Found some success with 'Roman' though.
Any ideas?
Unless most of the population moves away from the obsessions of eating and drinking to excess things will just get worse as what looks good on a "skinny" mannequin will never look anything like as attractive when worn by the average person.
TK
I'm always frustrated at the lack of clothing (Especially skirts!) designed with living in mind rather than just careful posing (I'm looking at you, Topshop mini skirts). Someone said that people who are not wheelchair users don't care what clothes look like sitting down (sorry I can't remember which person) and many have said we are a minority so it's not cost effective but really? Everyone sits down and it's not always under a desk. Arm chairs, sofas, seats for when you're shoe shopping... Yes models should definitely be photographed sitting down! And not in artistic poses which mimic absolutely nothing from real life I might add :")
Also sale sections in shops can be a nightmare. I have a really small mobility scooter (about the same width as my wheelchair) and I couldn't fit it between the rails in H&M, I thought "what do I expect it's just the old sale bit why should they make an effort?" Which is so sad because of COURSE they should "make an effort". We aren't 50% of the population but we're a decent minority! The biggest I think.
I have seen one mannequin sitting down in River Island (it actually freaked me out as I thought it was a real person!) It was sitting on the edge of a low down display and didn't take up too much space while really enhancing the look of the place so I don't see why they couldn't make that regular practice. It's not a lot to ask and if we write ourselves off as a minority with no right to ask for these things then that's really sad and nothing will ever change!
Great post ♡
I have never had any issue with any person asking for more appropriate displays or whatever even those in minority groups. I do have an issue with those who demand preferential treatment especially if they are in a minority group or those who start going on about trying to get money or special treatment by using the court or other such systems to gain some sort of advantage. I was brought up to be polite and respect others point of view and though I struggle with doing so at times with the pain and frustration in my life, I still think that politely asking for help or assistance is still far preferable to insisting on setting same. No one anywhere has a right to special treatment and I do not care if it even says that it is in law, there are some very stupid laws in this country.
On the point of daft laws.... do you know that to propel any wheeled "vehicle" the wrong way down a one way street is against the law and could be prosecuted? For vehicle read pram, push-chair, wheelchair, scooter (child or adult version) and the law makes no distinction between road and pavement because it was enacted when there were no pavements, lol!
TK