Green Power scooters (hints and tips)
Comments
-
ok so the motor it has atm is 800w, it got me and a brother, our combined weight about 31 stone up a 6% grade hill for about half a mile, still had enough to get me home after being out pretty much all night, seriously it is an insane "mobility" scooter, my sarge loves it, it is not really a mobility scooter it is a scooter tamed to be a mobility scooter, it will be receiving a 1500w motor, it should not change anything except its ability to take or tow heavyweight, it won't go any faster but it should have the ability to tow better. unless of course we change its MCU
0 -
I have got the Unique 500 with the 500w motor so I am looking to upgrade the motor but would not want to tackle anything other than a straight swap out. What do you think, and if possible what motor would you recommend? Don't need to go fasyer but there are a number of good hills about.
Colin
0 -
Hello Colin the motors are ZHOZHUT 350W-1800W Electric Tricycle Motor 48V / 60V Permanent Magnet Brushless DC Motor 3000r/min DIY Accessories For Electric Tricycle, 5-Hole 16-Tooth Motor For Tricycles And Rickshaws from Amazon, the motors bolt on the same way however the wiring maybe a bit different, i have decided i am going with the 1800w as like you mentioned hills are a **** for me too but it wont be untill xmas is out of the way, i also suspect that the snail gear end may have a sealed gasket so it will hold oil, however, i can't confirm it until i do mine
0 -
0
-
2 -
I'm in no hurry so I will wait until after Christmas when you have done it and give us some guidance. Happy Christmas! Colin
1 -
I have a Green Power ZT500. The batteries failed after 12 months so have been replaced with brand new - and have been tested professionally. I have a new charger which puts in 55volts on full charge. All was fine until recently.
I can only travel around 2-3 miles before the scooter suddenly dies - with the battery guage at zero. I stop and the level immediately goes up to max on the meter. When I measure the battery voltage with a multimeter it is 50.5 volts. I cannot see any signs of a short anywhere. The motor runs very well. It accelerates and gets up to speed easily when working properly. The brakes do not bind. I would appreciate any advice please.
0 -
@Pitmore
Considering you have done the checks i would do Then i would start looking at the motor control unit which is on the rear of the scooter after removing the boot, also i would take a look at the digital dash as they are not very resistant to weather and can cause all sorts of issues, mine lights up like a Christmas tree but my scooter goes fine so far.
When you say it dies does it cut out?
0 -
See above, it maybe an Amp Hour problem and not the voltage, the dash only shows volts and not the amps it has, as far as i know, here is a link who have an online chat that may be helpful, also due to the scooters being more like a motorbike, a motorbike auto electrician could probably help providing it is not the MCU at fault, please bare in mind the electrics are not too good at all on any of the models when left in the weather or used in bad weather, my scooter is 5 months old and i am having electrical issues with it, it runs fine but lights, dash, etc are behaving very strange, i will be taking mine all apart when the summer arrives to see if it can be modified to be better with something like a waterproof spray that can be used to coat the electrics and so offering better protection
Mechanically i find they are brilliant and very easy to repair
i hope this helps you
Get back to me if you like
0 -
+Thanks for your comments. Yes Razr, the meter goes white and the scooter stops. As I said, the batteries have been bench tested and charge to 55volts. The scooter stops at around 50volts - tested when stationary. Everything else seems fine, It runs well up to this point. I assume that the motor controller is suspect. Is the cut out voltage adjustable? Or will it be a new unit? Thankyou both again for your help.
0 -
Sorry Razr. I;ve just realised both posts were yours! By the way Green Power are being awkaward with me because I chose to purchase new batteries from a different UK supplier. (much much cheaper). They just don;t want to know. I am very disappointed with Green Power. Customer service was excellent when I purchased the scooter.
0 -
Sounds like the motor controller may be at fault, it should be able to go lower than 50V before it cuts out as your motor should be 48V 500W (4x12V batteries) although it will show a slightly higher voltage when fully recharged and your motor controller should be the same voltage 48V, Did you buy it new? i am asking this as someone may have fitted the wrong MCU in the past, can you send me a photo of your motor and a photo of the motor controller and any labels it has, i will do my best to research it for you and get back to you
My scooter is 60V power source for the motor 800W and with 60v MCU (5x12v, 20Ah each battery) with a 12v converter to run lights etc, as far as i know, there is not much difference with the modules used in all of them, If you look on amazon you will see the motors are all the same and bolt on exactly the same.
ZHOZHUT Motors
they come in 48v/60v/72v and 500W up to 1800w, you can also get the motor controller from them
the electrical parts used in Green power scooters are widely available and are not unipue to Green Power
I know Green Power parts are way overpriced, i will be voiding my warranty and i am upgrading mine as soon as i can
0 -
Mine with a trailer carrying a class 2 mobility scooter, offroad tires and all lights LED
1 -
0
-
i have a green power
Unique4i have put 5 x 12v 30ah lithium battery's in and a battery equalizer and i get 40 mile on a full charge no problem
1 -
First of all my apologies to you Razr for not replying sooner. And thank you for taking the time to offer advice. As stated earlier I have had problems with my zt500 losing power after a short distance. The fairly new batteries were returned to the supplier and I was assured that they had been bench tested and that they were perfect. Sadly, after much investigation and expense that was not the case. I purchased a good set of Lucas batteries from another supplier and - touch wood - they are still working well after one month.
Following advice from Green Power I replaced the motor controller - but no improvement.
I then replaced the charger - but no improvement.
So then went for new batteries and voila!During all this I decided to contact the Chinese AI websit "deepseek". I was blown away by the in-depth advice I received.
I will post two of these sessions in the hope that they will be of help to everyone0 -
QUESTION TO DEEPSEEK ; my 48v AGM Gel battery charger has been charging overnight and has switched off. The switch off voltage was 55v the standing voltage is 51.2v (12.8v per barttery) is it possible that the charger reached shut off voltage before fully charging the batteries to 22amps, That is to say could the batteries be only part charged?No suitable content found
Key Observations
- Charger Behavior:
- The charger switched off at 55V, which is within the typical charging range for a 48V AGM battery system.
- AGM batteries usually have a bulk/absorption voltage of around 14.4V to 14.7V per 12V battery (57.6V to 58.8V for a 48V pack) and a float voltage of around 13.5V to 13.8V per 12V battery (54V to 55.2V for a 48V pack).
- Standing Voltage:
- After charging, the standing voltage of the pack is 51.2V (12.8V per battery).
- This is lower than expected for a fully charged AGM battery pack. A fully charged 48V AGM pack should have a standing voltage of around 52.8V to 53.6V (13.2V to 13.4V per battery).
- Charger Shut Off at 55V:
- The charger reached 55V and then switched off, which is close to the float voltage for AGM batteries. However, the standing voltage of 51.2V suggests the batteries are not fully charged.
Is It Possible the Batteries Are Only Partially Charged?
Yes, it’s possible. Here’s why:
- Charger May Have Switched to Float Mode Prematurely:
- AGM chargers typically have three stages: bulk, absorption, and float.
- If the charger switched to float mode too early (e.g., before the batteries were fully charged), it would stop delivering the full charging current (22A) and maintain a lower voltage (around 55V).
- This could result in the batteries being only partially charged.
- Batteries May Not Be Accepting a Full Charge:
- If the batteries are old, sulfated, or damaged, they may not be able to reach their full charge voltage, even if the charger is functioning correctly.
- High internal resistance or capacity loss can prevent the batteries from fully charging.
Could This Indicate a Faulty Charger?
Possibly. Here’s how to check:
- Charger Output Voltage:
- Use a multimeter to measure the charger’s output voltage while it’s connected to the batteries.
- A healthy AGM charger should deliver:
- Bulk/Absorption Voltage: ~57.6V to 58.8V (14.4V to 14.7V per battery).
- Float Voltage: ~54V to 55.2V (13.5V to 13.8V per battery).
- If the charger is not reaching these voltages, it may be faulty.
- Charger Current Delivery:
- Check if the charger is delivering the full 22A during the bulk charging phase.
- If the current drops too early (before the batteries are fully charged), the charger may be malfunctioning.
Could the Batteries Be Failing Even Though They Are at 12.8V?
Yes, it’s possible. Here’s why:
- Standing Voltage Misleading:
- A standing voltage of 12.8V per battery (51.2V for the pack) is not fully charged for AGM batteries.
- Fully charged AGM batteries should read 13.2V to 13.4V per battery (52.8V to 53.6V for the pack) after resting for a few hours.
- High Internal Resistance or Sulfation:
- If the batteries are old or have been deeply discharged, they may develop sulfation or high internal resistance.
- This can prevent them from reaching their full charge voltage, even if the charger is working correctly.
- Capacity Loss:
- Over time, AGM batteries lose capacity due to aging and cycling.
- Even if they appear to charge, they may not hold their full capacity, leading to reduced performance.
Steps to Diagnose the Issue
1. Test the Charger
- Measure the charger’s output voltage and current during the charging process.
- Ensure it reaches the correct bulk/absorption voltage (~57.6V to 58.8V) and delivers the full 22A during the bulk phase.
2. Check Battery Health
- Perform a load test on each battery to check for voltage drop under load.
- Measure the specific gravity of the electrolyte (if accessible) to check for sulfation.
- Test the capacity of each battery by fully charging and then discharging at a known current.
3. Inspect for Imbalanced Batteries
- Measure the voltage of each battery after charging.
- If one battery is significantly lower (e.g., 12.4V while others are 12.8V), it may need to be replaced.
Possible Solutions
- Replace the Charger:
- If the charger is not delivering the correct voltage or current, replace it with a charger designed for 48V AGM batteries.
- Desulfate the Batteries:
- Use a desulfation charger or device to attempt to recover sulfated batteries.
- Replace the Batteries:
- If the batteries are old or have lost significant capacity, replace them with new ones.
- Balance the Battery Pack:
- Ensure all batteries are at the same voltage and state of charge.
Why Did the Charger Stop at 55V?
- The charger likely switched to float mode at 55V, which is normal for AGM batteries.
- However, the batteries may not have been fully charged due to:
- A faulty charger.
- Weak or sulfated batteries.
Next Steps
- Test the charger’s output voltage and current to confirm if it’s functioning correctly.
- Check the health of each battery using a load test or capacity test.
- If the charger is faulty, replace it with a compatible AGM charger.
- If the batteries are weak or sulfated, consider desulfating or replacing them.
1 - Charger Behavior:
-
QUESTION TO DEEPSEEK
The battery capacities were tested and found to be 82% 90% 92% 93% is this ok?
The battery capacities you provided (82%, 90%, 92%, 93%) indicate that the batteries are not perfectly matched, and the one at 82% is significantly weaker than the others. While this might seem "okay" at first glance, it can cause issues in a series-connected battery pack, especially under load. Here's why and what you should do:
Why the Capacity Mismatch is a Problem
- Uneven Discharge:
- In a series-connected battery pack, the weakest battery (82% capacity) will discharge faster than the others.
- When the weakest battery is depleted, the entire pack will shut down, even if the other batteries still have charge left.
- Voltage Sag Under Load:
- The weaker battery will struggle to deliver current under load, causing its voltage to drop more than the others.
- This can trigger the scooter’s low-voltage cutoff prematurely, even if the overall pack voltage seems fine at rest.
- Reduced Overall Performance:
- The pack’s total capacity is limited by the weakest battery (82%). This reduces the scooter’s range and performance.
Is This "Okay"?
- Short-Term Use: The pack might work for light use, but it’s not ideal for consistent or heavy use.
- Long-Term Use: The capacity mismatch will worsen over time, leading to more frequent failures and reduced performance.
What You Should Do
1. Replace the Weakest Battery
- Replace the battery with 82% capacity with a new one that matches the capacity and chemistry of the others.
- This will help balance the pack and improve overall performance.
2. Balance the Battery Pack
- Use a balancing charger to ensure all batteries are at the same voltage and state of charge.
- This will help prevent uneven discharge and extend the life of the pack.
3. Monitor Battery Health
- Regularly test the capacity and voltage of each battery to catch any degradation early.
- Replace batteries as needed to maintain a balanced pack.
4. Consider Replacing the Entire Pack
- If the batteries are old or have been cycled many times, it might be more cost-effective to replace the entire pack with a new, matched set.
- This ensures consistent performance and avoids future issues.
Why Did the Scooter Fail After 2 Miles?
- The weakest battery (82% capacity) likely discharged faster than the others under load.
- When its voltage dropped too low, the scooter’s low-voltage cutoff was triggered, causing it to shut down.
- After the load was removed, the voltage recovered, which is why the standing voltage appeared normal.
Next Steps
- Replace the 82% capacity battery with a new one that matches the others.
- Balance the pack using a balancing charger.
- Test the scooter to ensure it performs consistently under load.
1 - Uneven Discharge:
-
QUESTION TO DEEPSEEK
The motor was running well with no problems. There was no overheating, The controller has been replaced with new. But the scooter suddenly stopped after 2 miles. Under a load test the battery pack dropped to 35 volts at failure. Then it returned to 50.4 standing voltage. each battery was 12.6 volts standing. Why would the scooter fail after 2 miles running perfectly?
The fact that your scooter was running perfectly for 2 miles before suddenly failing, combined with the voltage dropping to 35V under load and recovering to 50.4V standing voltage, strongly suggests that the issue lies within the battery pack. Here's a detailed explanation of what’s likely happening and how to diagnose it further:
Key Observations
- Sudden Failure After 2 Miles:
- The scooter ran well initially, indicating the motor, controller, and wiring are functioning correctly.
- The failure occurred after some time, which points to a battery-related issue that manifests under sustained load.
- Voltage Drop Under Load:
- The battery pack dropped to 35V under load, which is likely below the scooter’s low-voltage cutoff, causing it to shut down.
- After the load was removed, the voltage recovered to 50.4V, indicating the batteries are not completely dead but are struggling to deliver power under load.
- Standing Voltage of Individual Batteries:
- Each battery shows 12.6V standing voltage, which is normal for a fully charged 12.8V battery. However, this doesn’t rule out internal issues like weak cells or capacity loss.
Likely Causes of the Problem
1. Weak or Failing Cells in the Battery Pack
- Even though the standing voltage of each battery appears normal, one or more cells within a battery may be weak or damaged.
- Under load, these weak cells cannot sustain the required current, causing the voltage to sag dramatically.
- Once the load is removed, the voltage recovers because the weak cells are no longer being stressed.
2. Capacity Loss in the Batteries
- If the batteries are old or have been cycled many times, their capacity may have degraded.
- After 2 miles of use, the batteries may have been depleted to the point where they can no longer sustain the required voltage under load.
3. Imbalanced Battery Pack
- If the batteries are not well-balanced, one battery may be weaker than the others.
- Under load, the weaker battery’s voltage drops significantly, causing the entire pack to fail.
4. High Internal Resistance
- Batteries with high internal resistance cannot deliver high currents efficiently.
- Under load, the voltage drops due to the resistance, even if the batteries are not fully depleted.
Steps to Diagnose the Issue
1. Test Each Battery Under Load
- Connect a load (e.g., a high-wattage resistor or the scooter’s motor) to each battery individually and measure the voltage under load.
- A healthy battery should maintain a voltage close to its rated value (e.g., 12V or higher) under load.
- If one battery drops significantly (e.g., below 10V), it is likely faulty.
2. Check Battery Capacity
- Fully charge each battery and then discharge it at a known current (e.g., using a battery tester or a constant current load).
- Measure the total capacity (in ampere-hours, Ah) and compare it to the rated capacity.
- If the capacity is significantly lower than rated, the battery needs to be replaced.
3. Inspect for Imbalanced Batteries
- Measure the standing voltage of each battery after charging.
- If one battery is significantly lower (e.g., 12.4V while others are 12.8V), it may need to be balanced or replaced.
4. Check for High Internal Resistance
- Use a battery analyzer or a specialized tool to measure the internal resistance of each battery.
- High internal resistance indicates a failing battery.
Possible Solutions
- Replace Weak Batteries:
- If one or more batteries are faulty, replace them with new ones of the same capacity and chemistry.
- Balance the Battery Pack:
- Use a balancing charger to ensure all batteries are at the same voltage.
- Upgrade the Battery Pack:
- If the batteries are old or low-capacity, consider upgrading to a higher-capacity pack.
- Check Connections:
- Ensure all connections in the battery pack and wiring are clean, tight, and free of corrosion.
Why Did the Scooter Fail After 2 Miles?
- The batteries were able to deliver power initially, but as they discharged, the weaker cells or batteries could no longer sustain the required voltage under load.
- Once the voltage dropped below the scooter’s low-voltage cutoff (likely around 35V), the scooter shut down to protect the batteries.
Next Steps
- Test each battery under load to identify the weak one(s).
- Replace or balance the faulty batteries.
- If the batteries are old, consider replacing the entire pack.
1 - Sudden Failure After 2 Miles:
-
Sorry but i have been away, that is some awesome info you have provided Pitmore, thanks for adding to this Thread
0
Categories
- All Categories
- 14.9K Start here and say hello!
- 7K Coffee lounge
- 81 Games den
- 1.7K People power
- 101 Announcements and information
- 23.3K Talk about life
- 5.5K Everyday life
- 274 Current affairs
- 2.3K Families and carers
- 856 Education and skills
- 1.9K Work
- 501 Money and bills
- 3.5K Housing and independent living
- 998 Transport and travel
- 683 Relationships
- 72 Sex and intimacy
- 1.4K Mental health and wellbeing
- 2.4K Talk about your impairment
- 857 Rare, invisible, and undiagnosed conditions
- 916 Neurological impairments and pain
- 2K Cerebral Palsy Network
- 1.2K Autism and neurodiversity
- 38K Talk about your benefits
- 5.8K Employment and Support Allowance (ESA)
- 19.2K PIP, DLA, ADP and AA
- 7.6K Universal Credit (UC)
- 5.4K Benefits and income